Dior Maria Grazia Chiuri på sit nye liv i Paris: “I’m like a tourist in Diorland”

8 AM LA VIE EN ROSE

This is the first time I have been to Paris, and although I’m familiar with the city, there is still much to discover. I go to work every day, often through Jardin du Luxembourgh, across the street from my apartment. It’s really nice to wake up and go in the garden. I can see people driving or reading a book in a small cafe nearby.

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Getty

9:00 FIRST ORDER

Normally I have a coffee outside at a café, but it’s too early for me to have a specific routine because I’m still exploring this company. Jeg er som en turist i Diorland. I will study heritage and archives, and I do not even understand all the buildings. We speak three languages ​​here – French, English and Italian – so it’s always exciting to see another point of view, and in France there is this idea of ​​couture at you feel everywhere.

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Courtesy Dior

I must design in a sophisticated way to achieve what I want.

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Rich Fury / Getty

11 AM INDSTILLING AF EN SCENE

Dior er en stor faktor, og vi går trin for trin i en samling. Jeg starter til måneder for tidligt, fordi det er som at lave en film: You have an idea, find the location, decide on the models and test the various areas of craft. Each detail helps to tell the story.

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Courtesy Dior

Dior’s historiske kontorer har været hjemme for sin couture atelier siden 1946.

1 p.m. UNDER UDVIKLING

When I design, I’m not alone in a closed room. I associate other elements that may be interesting because I am very open. There are probably more talented people who can do their work in hours, but I’m not like them. I choose colors and materials and have arguments about bags and shoes. We have a big buffet under the seizures, and there is always a debate about it too. Ved at spise er Paris en hård ting for en italiener. Kan vi ikke have noget simpelt? En salat? Nogle ris?

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Courtesy Dior

“I did not want to refer to that red blanket,” says Chiuri to take her resort 2018 to L.A. “People also come here for the beautiful weather.”

3 pm LAGRE BILDE

I think a lot about how fashion speaks for women. When I came her, everyone said that Dior is a feminine brand, but I wondered, “what does it mean today?” Christian Dior sagde, at kvinder er som blomster, men vi skal finde en anden måde at kommunikere på. What do women think now? Hvad vil de? Jeg tror, ​​de vil have mulighed.

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Courtesy Dior

Since I had doubts about moving to Dior, my family really supported me. Det er svært at skifte roller og afprøve selv, men de sagde: “Bare rolig!”

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Georgia O’Keeffe, Abiquiu, N.M., 1984, gelatinsølvprint, 14 x 11 inch (35,6 x 27,9 cm), Bruce Weber og Nan Bush Collection, New York. © Bruce Weber

I like to think of Georgia O’Keeffe like this shamanist woman when she wanted to walk around the desert in a kimono-like jacket.

MIN DAGLIG MANTRA

Previously, mode has introduced its view of women, but the new generation sees it as a way of expressing itself. They will use clothes as a means of freedom without rules. As designer, I think about how my work can support a positive message and help spread more tolerance, hopefully.

Kl. GRAND TOUR

During the week I live in Paris, so I go out at night and visit museums and libraries. What should I do, stay home and look at a wall? There are some restaurants I like, but the food is too rich and has too much sauce, so I decided to start cooking. Det er umuligt ikke at. Jeg er for meget af en italiener!

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Courtesy Dior

MEG TID FORDEL

Min mand [shirtmaker Paolo Regini] og jeg elsker at køre i sydvestlige USA, fordi med alle de store veje og rum er det sikrere at gå hurtigt.

VEJRUDSIGT

I know it’s not scientific, but I like astrology. Jeg er en vandmand, ligesom Mr. Dior. We are curious, not nostalgic.

RESTORE

Jeg elsker massage! There is a beautiful Dior spa right in front of our office.

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Courtesy Dior

REMIX: Chiuri dækkede modernisme, feminisme og forhistorik i en enkelt krydstogtsamling. “You find some elements that work together at the moment,” she says.

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Getty

“I found a beautiful dress in the archives inspired by Lascaux-hule paintings, but I wanted to make it in jacquard rather than as a print.”

Som sagt til Eric Wilson.

For flere historier som dette, hent det november nummer af Med stil, tilgjengelig på aviskiosker, på Amazon, og til digital download 13. okt.

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