Alessandro Michele has established a clear signature at Gucci, much faster than most designers who have taken over a large design house. Nostalgisk, romantisk, lidt off-kilter og i nogle tilfælde køn tvetydig, his designs are designed to make a very clear statement: Gucci is his house, now.
Hans første kvindeslædekollektion, which was shown in Milan in February, was well received but also polarizing because the vintage inspired clothes that were designed to indicate that they had been pierced from a luggage compartment stored in some attic rooms did not fit de etablerede normer af luksus. They do not reflect the general pace of the moment. And it was for this reason that Michele became instantly interesting.
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Hans feriested viser i morgen (afbildet ovenfor), held in an art gallery in New York and with dozens of international editors flown to the apartment and the cement floor covered with a lappish work of antique carpets, many of the motifs of the fall brought forth – pants pulled more inches over the hem, bee embroidery as a passement on militære jakker, en strikbjælke, mormors gamle briller. Dette er Michele underskrifter. He had many other ideas to add to this collection, including a lighter palette, bombers embroidered with Asian animal poopers (graphic roaring tigers, slugfeer, snake slanger) and perversely a very sexy transparent lace mini dress.
The sort was so great that this collection seemed a recall for those who noticed that his fall debut was too far beyond the comfort area Gucci, the antitese of hyper-sexualized appearance established by Tom Ford in the 1990s. Michele’s resort samling var faktisk på mange måder ganske shoppable. Der var kendetegnende kunsthåndværk udseende, som et model, der havde en rosa quiltet silkefrakke og et tørklæde bundet på hovedet, der mindede om en lysere udgave af Beales of Gray Gardens, but also many star dresses of delicate pleated silk, similar to Gucci dress Lupita Nyong ‘O bar på Cannes, pyntet med søde silke blomster, som er på en kage.
Michele also played Gucci-logoet and is named in greater detail in this show, but added his tag. Lædertasker was marked with the Gucci name in uppercase letters, and a version of its signature-red-and-green stripes appeared in a lurex version as banding on a toile-print sweatshirt worn over a spotted skirt of gold.
FOTO: Bane ser vi elsker: Gucci